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Talking to...Luisa Cevese for Maharam

Staff -- Interior Design, 8/1/2006 12:00:00 AM

When Luisa Cevese was the research director for a silk mill in Como, Italy, she was shocked by the quantity of waste generated by textile production. Some of those industrial remnants—from damaged yarns to cut garments—now find their way into accessories manufactured by the self-taught designer's company, Riedizioni. The scraps are arranged by hand, then encased in plastic sheets to create a composite material that's as durable as it is visually intriguing. Attracted by this inventive spirit of adaptive reuse, Maharam commissioned Cevese to create Ply.

The collection features interlocking jute, chenille, and tweed yarns sandwiched between PVC-free polyurethane, offering elasticity and durability. Cevese has designed five variations: a black grid on a translucent white or tan ground; a white grid on a black ground; a scarlet squiggle on a translucent white ground; and a caramel-and-cream squiggle on a tan ground. She shares more here.

What attracted you initially to textile design?

Textiles are structure, another version of architecture. Perhaps a more feminine one. I was interested in how a material takes form—and how to give form to it.

Why the fascination with plastic?

It's a wonderful material, a unifying element. In terms of functionality, the durability and strength can open up a world of possibilities unknown to fabric.

Where did the idea for Ply come from?

Maharam approached me after seeing what I'd been doing in the last nine years. Michael and Stephen always look for originality and, of course, beauty. After they commissioned me, what I tried to do was to transfer part of my Riedizioni concept into upholstery that had both the functionality of plastic and the warm qualities of a fabric.

Tell us about the patterns.

As you can see, they're very basic. There's a stripe, a square, and a diamond. That's because pattern is only one of many elements in textile design—yarn, color, and finish are just as important. All of them combine to create the design, the expression of emotion.

How did you select your palette?

I've always loved clear and colorless, but I was also intrigued by having a black base and some lighter shades, which turned out to be tan. Red, of course, is a classic.

How do you envision Ply applied?

For upholstery fabric as well as room dividers. I also envision developing a line of fashion and home accessories.

What was the most challenging aspect of designing this collection?

Producing a new material is always a challenge. The biggest difficulties were to find the right thickness and get through all the required testing.

What part was the most fun?

The possibilities. And the opportunity to see them produced.